{"id":3096,"date":"2025-12-01T22:18:42","date_gmt":"2025-12-02T03:18:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/leguitovore.com\/?post_type=video&p=3096"},"modified":"2025-12-06T08:37:00","modified_gmt":"2025-12-06T13:37:00","slug":"adjusting-your-guitar-isnt-rocket-science-and-it-makes-all-the-difference","status":"publish","type":"video","link":"https:\/\/leguitovore.com\/en\/video\/ajuster-sa-guitare-cest-pas-sorcier-et-ca-change-tout\/","title":{"rendered":"Adjusting your guitar isn't rocket science (and it changes EVERYTHING!)"},"content":{"rendered":"

You probably have a guitar that's been gathering dust in a closet for years. Maybe it was your first, a gift, or a find on Marketplace. It looks cool, but it doesn't play very well, and every time you think about it, you tell yourself: "It'll cost too much for what it's worth."\u00ab<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, we're changing all that! I have a small Squier Telecaster Affinity<\/strong> which belongs to a youth center. It needed some love, and I'm going to show you how to transform this forgotten instrument into a guitar that really makes you want to play, with a few simple adjustments.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

1. Inspection and Initial Diagnosis<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Visible Problems<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
    \n
  • One rope was missing.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • One was missing bridge screw<\/strong> (saddle).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • A finished worn<\/strong> revealing earlier layers of paint (metallic gray, blue, then gold!) \u2014 interesting, but not essential to setup<\/em>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • The mechanics are functional, the output jack is tight.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • The electronics were quickly tested and are functional<\/strong>.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
    \n
    \"\"\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Crucial Playability Measures (Before Removing the Strings)<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

    The three important measurements for playability are nut height (lower frets), neck curvature (relief), and string height (action).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      \n
    1. Height of the nut (First fret):<\/strong>\n
        \n
      • I press down on the third fret and assess the space at the first. The space was satisfying<\/strong> (a little clearance was needed, but it was not excessive).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      • Curve of the English Channel (Relief):<\/strong>\n
          \n
        • In playing position, I fretted the string at the first fret and at the junction of the neck and body.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        • The space halfway between these two points was huge<\/strong> (concave)! This indicated that the handle had far too much curvature<\/strong> without even being under tension, which causes high action and a difficult game.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
          \n
          \"\"\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
          \"\"\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
          \n\n\n\n

          2. Preparation and Correction of Defects<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

          After removing the strings, I proceeded with the corrections.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

          Restoration of the bridge and buttons<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
            \n
          • Bridge screw:<\/strong> I replaced the missing screw with a spare part (from Amazon or another guitar) which, fortunately, went in perfectly without forcing.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
          • Potentiometers:<\/strong> The potentiometers (pots<\/em>), which have no fixing screws and are press-fitted, were pushed in too deep<\/strong> and they were scratching as they turned. I used a thin tool like a lever<\/strong> (with a protective cover on the body) to slightly lift the buttons and create a small space, making the game much smoother.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
            \n
            \"\"\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
            \"\"\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

            Neck Adjustment: The Truss Rod<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

            The handle had too much concave curvature. The goal was to tighten the truss rod<\/em> to straighten it and obtain a handle perfectly flat<\/strong> before applying the tension to the new strings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

              \n
            1. Flatness Check:<\/strong> I used a notched ruler<\/strong> (25.5\u2033 side for Fender) to confirm the excessive bend without tension.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
            2. Tightening:<\/strong> I inserted the correct size Allen key. The truss rod<\/em> was soft<\/strong> and wasn't tight at all.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
            3. Process :<\/strong> I tightened the truss rod<\/em> in the clockwise<\/strong> (clockwise) by making several adjustments (quarter turn, then eighth turn). Do not force it excessively. I have observed, as is often the case, that 90 % of the movement is instant<\/strong>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
            4. Result :<\/strong> I stopped when the handle became perfectly flat<\/strong> (more light under the notched ruler).<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
              \n
              \"\"\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
              \"\"\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
              \"\"\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
              \"\"\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
              \n\n\n\n

              3. Fret Adjustment and Fingerboard Maintenance<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

              The Cutting Frets (Fret Sprout)<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

              The ends of the frets protruded and were sharp.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

                \n
              1. Protection:<\/strong> I applied some masking tape<\/strong> along the edge of the key.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
              2. Liming\/Shaping:<\/strong> I used a small, soft file with a technical type abrasive Trizact<\/strong> (similar to fine sandpaper) to pass over the edge of the handle.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
              3. Stop :<\/strong> I continued until the abrasion marks on the masking tape began to widen, indicating that the frets were now flush<\/strong> (equal) with the edge of the key.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                Softening of the Edges<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

                The previous filing left sharp micro-edges.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

                  \n
                • I used a modified hardware file<\/strong> with a ridge plate<\/strong> (toothless).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                • I pressed the flat side against the corner of each fret, and I made a delicate movement descending inwards<\/strong> of the fretboard. This creates a micro-rounding to remove the sharp edge of the fret.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n

                  Polishing and Oiling<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                    \n
                  1. Polishing:<\/strong> I used a small sanding block for manicures<\/strong> (using fretboard protectors) to polish the oxidation off the frets, switching from the abrasive side to the polishing side. The difference was very noticeable between a fret before and after.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                  2. Oiling:<\/strong> The rosewood key was dry as the Gobi Desert<\/strong>. I applied a oil<\/strong> to hydrate the wood, which revealed the grain and made the surface very pleasant to the touch.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
                    \n\n\n\n

                    4. String Installation and Final Adjustments<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

                    New Rope<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                      \n
                    • I used a set of strings D'Addario 9-46<\/strong> (slightly thicker than standard, but no major adjustment to the nut required).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                    • Nice detail:<\/strong> This guitar does not have strings passing through the body (string-through<\/em>), but the strings are inserted from the back of the bridge. I found this system very unpleasant<\/strong> to change. I used a trick: bend the rope<\/strong> to create an angle before inserting it so that it catches the bridge and rises.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                    • Winding Method:<\/strong> To tighten the tuning pegs, I inserted the string, pulled it as tight as possible by hand, then... recast by about one square<\/strong> (One and a half frets is ideal for thicker strings). By tightening, I ensure that the winding is descending<\/strong>, which creates a locking angle and better tension.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n

                      Adjusting the Action (String Height)<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                        \n
                      1. Curvature Check (Post-tension):<\/strong> I put the strings under tension and checked the relief<\/em>. The handle is elastic<\/strong> and the curvature was still too pronounced. I made several round trips<\/strong> between loosening the strings, adjusting the truss rod<\/em> (+1\/4 turn, etc.) and re-energize until a satisfactory curvature is obtained.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                      2. Easel Height (Action):<\/strong>\n
                          \n
                        • I determined the radius of the key<\/strong> (between 9\u2033 and 10\u2033 with templates).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                        • I aimed for a share of approximately 1.5 mm<\/strong> under the small rope and 1.75 mm<\/strong> under the big rope (for comfortable playability).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                        • I adjusted the height of the outer bridges, then I adjusted the intermediate bridges to follow the aisle<\/strong> of the touch.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                          Intonation (Final Setting)<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

                          Intonation ensures that the instrument sounds in tune along the entire length of the neck.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

                            \n
                          • Principle:<\/strong> We need to compare the sound of the harmonic at the 12th fret<\/strong> with the sound of the fretted note at the 12th fret<\/strong>. The two must be perfectly identical.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                          • Adjustment:<\/strong>\n
                              \n
                            • If the fretted note is lower\/bass<\/strong> that the harmonic (flat), it is necessary move forward<\/strong> the bridge (shorten the rope). (Tip: Flat Forward<\/em>).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                            • If the fretted note is higher\/sharper<\/strong> that the harmonic (sharp), it is necessary to move back<\/strong> the bridge (lengthen the rope).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                            • Observation :<\/strong> The bridges have taken the classic form of a stairs<\/strong> after the adjustment.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n

                              Lubrication<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                                \n
                              • Saddle and bridges:<\/strong> I used some pencil lead (graphite)<\/strong> to lubricate the nut slots and the contact points on the bridge saddles.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                              • Liquid :<\/strong> I applied a small drop of ceramic-based bicycle chain lubricant<\/strong> on the pivot points of the bridges, wiping away the excess so that it does not come into contact with the vibrating part of the string (which would impair the sound).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
                                \n\n\n\n

                                Conclusion: The Guardian of Your Guitar<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

                                A well-adjusted guitar makes all the difference: it sounds better, it plays better, and you'll want to play it more often. Most of these basic adjustments aren't rocket science.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

                                You can learn how to do these setups<\/em> yourself to become the guardian of your guitars<\/strong>. If one day it's beyond your skills (or if the instrument is too expensive), don't hesitate to call on a luthier. The important thing is to have instruments ready to play<\/strong> so they don't get dusty.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

                                Adjust them, have them adjusted, repair them, but above all, take them out and have fun!<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

                                Vous avez s\u00fbrement, vous aussi, une guitare qui tra\u00eene depuis des ann\u00e9es au fond d’un placard. Peut-\u00eatre votre premi\u00e8re, un cadeau, ou une trouvaille sur Marketplace. Elle a l’air cool, mais elle joue un peu mal, et \u00e0 chaque fois que vous y pensez, vous vous dites : \u00ab \u00c7a co\u00fbtera trop cher pour ce […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3097,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false},"tags":[],"categorie-de-video":[13],"class_list":["post-3096","video","type-video","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","categorie-de-video-ajustement"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nAjuster sa guitare, c\u2019est pas sorcier (et \u00e7a change TOUT!) - Le Guitovore<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/leguitovore.com\/en\/video\/adjusting-your-guitar-isnt-rocket-science-and-it-makes-all-the-difference\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Ajuster sa guitare, c\u2019est pas sorcier (et \u00e7a change TOUT!) - Le Guitovore\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Vous avez s\u00fbrement, vous aussi, une guitare qui tra\u00eene depuis des ann\u00e9es au fond d’un placard. 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Peut-\u00eatre votre premi\u00e8re, un cadeau, ou une trouvaille sur Marketplace. 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