Today, I'm taking you on a rather special adventure: my very first complete fret planimetry as an amateur, on my walnut guitar. Hold on tight, because you're about to discover whether this kind of manipulation is within everyone's reach or whether it's better left to professional luthiers. Will I succeed? Will I ruin my guitar? You'll find out by reading this article!
Why planimetry?
I knew my guitar needed a fret leveling for a while. Some of the frets were raised, and even though I had glued a few back in a previous video, it was not enough. There were areas of frieze in several places on the handle, and planimetry was the solution.
The stages of planimetry:
- Handle preparation:
- I started by removing the neck of the guitar.
- I then fixed it to a support using wooden clamps, so that it was stable and immobile.
- Removing the nut:
- Using an exacto, I cut the finish around the nut so I could remove it without damaging it.
- I then used a block of wood and a small saw to gently tap the back of the nut to pop it out.
- Checking the handle:
- Using a notched ruler, I checked that the handle was straight.
- I made a small adjustment to the truss rod to make it perfectly flat, as this is the reference on which we judge the flatness of the frets.
- Identifying high frets:
- With a fret rocker, I identified which frets were higher than the others.
- This tool is very useful because it allows you to check the balance between three frets and detect irregularities.
- I marked the problematic frets with a red marker for easy identification.
- Hiding the key:
- I masked the entire key with tape to protect it during the planimetry process.
- I used a special technique with two layers of tape to make it easier to remove at the end.
- I cut off the excess tape flush with the frets with an exacto for optimal protection.
- Preparing the sanding block:
- I used a Stanley Fat Max level as a sanding block because it is wide, flat and rigid.
- I covered one side of the level with tape to hold the sandpaper to.
- I used 320 grit sandpaper to start sanding.
- Since I didn't have any sandpaper in rolls, I cut strips from sheets and fixed them to the level with cyanoacrylate glue and a homemade bonding accelerator.
- Sanding the frets:
- I ran the sanding block over the frets using even, smooth strokes, without pressing too hard.
- I checked the progress regularly by observing the marker marks on the frets.
- I put a little more emphasis on the highest frets and on the last frets, which can be slightly lower than the others.
- Checking flatness:
- I used the fret rocker again to make sure all the frets were perfectly flat.
- I noticed that there were still some small dents on some of the frets, which I will have to correct later.
- Rounding of the frets:
- I used a fret file to round the top of the frets back into shape.
- I marked the frets with a marker to control the process and make sure I didn't remove too much material.
- I filed each fret until the marker gradually disappeared, leaving a thin blue line on top.
- Fine sanding:
- I used sandpaper of different grits (400, 600, 1000, 1500) to remove the scratches left by the file and polish the frets.
- I sanded in the direction of the neck, then perpendicularly, insisting on the sides of the frets.
- Polishing the frets:
- I used a metal polish to restore the shine to the frets.
- I applied the product to the frets and rubbed it with a soft cloth until it got a shiny result.
The final result:
After several hours of work, my first planimetry is finally finished! The result is satisfactory overall: the neck is more playable, the friezes have disappeared, and the frets are shiny and smooth.
Of course, there are always areas for improvement. I have a few frets that could have used a more precise adjustment, and I still have to deal with the two indentations I noticed when checking the flatness. But for a first time, I'm happy with the result.
Conclusion :
Fret planimetry is a delicate operation that requires patience, precision and rigor. It is not something that is done lightly, but with the right tools and the right information, it is quite achievable as an amateur.
I hope this article has been useful to you and has made you want to start planimetry of your own guitar. Feel free to share your experiences and questions in the comments!
See you soon for new guitar adventures!