If you have a frieze (buzz) on one or more frets of your guitar, don't panic! It may not be necessary to bring out the heavy artillery to redo a complete planimetry. Today, I continue my guitar kit project Dean Razorback, generously provided by Guitar Fabrik, to show you a targeted technique.
I will explain to you how partially level Or lower a fret that is too high to eliminate the frieze. Because sometimes, even before you hear that famous "buzz," you can see it! Let's do this together right away.
Diagnose the Problem: Fret Not Seated Correctly or Too High?
In the last unboxing video, we identified frets that needed finishing and others that were visibly higher using the fret rocker. They've been marked with a felt-tip pen. But before you get out the files and remove precious metal, it's crucial to make sure the fret doesn't just need to be pressed in.
This was the case for the 12th fret, which seemed very high. Upon closer inspection, I realized that it was not so much larger than the others, but rather that it was not perfectly seated in its notch.
Pushing a Fret: The First Line of Defense
To fix this, I first protected the key with masking tape. I then tried to gently push it in with a piece of soft wood (which I use regularly for other projects) and a hammer. However, the fret was stubborn and it wasn't enough.
So I moved on to heavier artillery. I used a rigid wooden support (which has less bounce than a bag of rice) and masked the fretboard again. I dug out a tool I'd tinkered with a while ago: an old drumstick modified with a small notch. This tool offers much more leverage and helps prevent the fret tips from lifting. I struck gently, working from the center of the fret outward, to seat it firmly in its notch.
After a few strokes, the rocking persisted a little, but I continued to tap gently until the fret was perfectly aligned with its neighbors. It is crucial to do not mark the frets during this step! Once pressed, I retested the flatness with the adjacent frets, and the result was perfect!
Leveling a Fret That’s Too High: Precision Above All
If the fret is seated well but still too high, then you need to remove some material. For this, I use a small file that I made myself with a fine sanding belt (the one used for sharpening knives).
To avoid constantly hiding and unhiding the key, I use a small steel guard that I position on the adjacent fret. With the file, I gently remove metal, just with the weight of my hand, from the spot I had marked with the felt-tip pen. I insist on the raised area and I check my progress frequently. This sanding belt is relatively fine, it removes little metal and does not leave big scratches, which is an advantage, but the work takes longer.
I then used a file a little more aggressively (also homemade from a file cut and filed on the contours). With this one, you have to be very careful not to press too hard so as not to create deep scratches that are difficult to remove later. After this step, I go back over the file smoother and retest the whole thing. We then see a flat on top of the fret, a sign that leveling is in progress.
Restoring the Rounded Shape to the Fret: The Art of Re-Crowning
Once the fret is leveled (with that little dish on top), the next step is to restore its original rounded shape. For this, I use a marker of another color to cover the top of the fret.
With a fret file (mine is from Amazon, a simple and affordable model), the goal is to remove the marker line on the sides of the fret, leaving only a thin line in the center, as fine as possible. This file is quite aggressive, so you have to go slowly and let the tool work without forcing too much.
It is important to clean the file regularly with a small brush (a toothbrush or a brass brush) to remove embedded metal particles, which could cause deep scratches. You can watch the line slowly disappear and thin out. For a fret, this takes some time, but the result is worth it.
The file can be tilted to focus on certain areas of the fret. The goal is to not never remove the marker line in the center, as this would mean that you have lowered the fret too much and you would have to repeat the process on the adjacent frets. Once the fret is re-crowned, we retest with the fret rocker to make sure that we have not lowered it too much in relation to its neighbors.
Polishing the Frets: The Final Touch
After re-crowning all the frets, we move on to polishing. I carefully mask the entire fingerboard to avoid embedding metal dust into the wood.
To polish, I use a little trick: a round eraser in which I dig a small channel. This serves as a support for the sandpaper and perfectly matches the shape of the fret. I start with 600 grit sandpaper. At this grain, it is difficult to dig a fret by hand, so you can go at it relatively vigorously without forcing. It is above all a long and repetitive job.
I then move on to the following grains: 1000, then 1500. At this point, I no longer use the eraser, but wrap the sandpaper around my finger. grain 2000, we are really in the polishing phase.
Finally, I use manicure blocks : one side with a grain equivalent to 2000-4000, and a white side of 8000. These blocks fit the shape of the fret well and provide an impressive shine.
Finishing the Fret Ends and Fingerboard
Once the polishing of the top of the frets is finished, I remove the masking tape to tackle the fret endsThese may have come out a little or become sharp after handling.
I use my hardware file (one flat side, one rounded side). I start with the flat side to remove the small sharp corner at the end of the fret, gently, without removing too much precious metal. Then, with the rounded side, I complete the shape by creating a slight bevel/rounding at the corner of the fret, just at the end, to avoid any sharp edges.
Then, at the grain 2000, I roll up a tube of sandpaper and run it over the bevels to soften the shape. I can even use my manicure block for an even smoother polish. While you may still see some file marks (purely cosmetic), the lack of sharp edges makes all the difference.
I take this opportunity to take a look at the edge of the key with the sandpaper, because I prefer a slightly rounded edge rather than too sharp. Finally, a quick polishing of the fingerboard with the manicure block for a flawless finish before final assembly.
The Verdict: A Transformed Handle!
The result? Leveled, re-crowned and polished frets, softened fingerboard edges. It's not a perfect job, the learning curve is constant, but every time I improve and I'm more and more satisfied! I'm even looking forward to refinishing my walnut guitar with this level of finish.
Working on the frets, even with these small, targeted corrections, transforms the feel of the neck. A fret that's frizzy shouldn't be a project that puts you off. As you've seen, it's entirely possible to fix it with a little time, thought, and patience.
Share your experiences!
Have you ever leveled frets, corrected fretboards, or similar issues? What's your favorite method for diagnosing and restoring your guitar to perfect condition? Leave me your comments; I'm curious to hear about your experiences!
Also, feel free to suggest ideas for future videos. The Razorback's finishing and full assembly are coming soon, but your needs and interests help me keep the channel filled with relevant content. French-language guitar content is a niche, so every idea is valuable!
While waiting for the next video, I'm back to working on my Razorback. We're tinkering with our guitars, we're playing guitar. Take care. See you soon!
